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The Burlington Free Press - April, 2003

Kitchen Table Offers Delicious Cuisine
By Tom Huntington

Burlington Free Press - April 17, 2003

A Napa Valley vibe has arrive in the Champlain Valley, and if didn't take long for Vermont flavor lovers to discover it.

The Kitchen Table Bistro, which opened in late February in the 1795 brick homestead that housed Chequers Restaurant for 15 years, is the latest addition to the stellar Richmond cuisine scene that includes such notables as the Blue Seal and Daily Bread.

The Kitchen Table is the fruit of a seed planted years ago by chef-owners Steve and Lara Atkins, 32, who bring considerable culinary experience to the "table." Steve, who was born and raised in Shelburne, has been working in restaurants since he started washing dishes at Pizza Hut at age 15. Stints at the Sirloin Saloon and Cafe Espresso followed, and his passion was further fostered at various establishments in Maine while he majored in biology at Bates College.

Forgoing medical school, Steve decided to follow his food instincts at the New England Culinary Institute, where he met Lara, a native of Knoxville, Tenn., in 1995. After their first year, the two headed out to California to do their internships in the famed Napa Valley region north of San Francisco. They loved it so much they decided to stay.

Steve and Lara returned to Vermont for a brief period in 1997 to get married at Kingsland Bay State Park in Ferrisburgh, but northern California beckoned yet again. After sweating it out in the intense San Francisco scene for a couple of years, both landed plum positions at Napa Valley hot spots Brix and La Toque: Steve as a sous-chef; and Lara, as a pastry specialist.

Like most chefs, the couple dreamed of opening their own restaurant. The fantasy was further fueled by the birth of their son, Gabriel, 18 months ago. Steve and Lara knew they wanted to raise their son in the Green Mountain State, and set out to find a space for their place. After returning home from a friend's wedding in Vermont in June, Lara want on the Internet and discovered the Chequers locale - the first day it was listed.

"It was serendipity," Lara said of the find, which came equipped with a second floor that the young family now calls home.

Not that the 18th-century structure - bought by Thomas Chittenden, Vermont's first governor, as a gift for his son - didn't need a serious overhaul. Insulation, new walls, ceilings and floors were needed in many areas, not to mention a gorgeous new kitchen and bathrooms. Three dining areas are elegantly adorned with forged-iron light fixtures and warm earth tons that perfectly complement the post-and-beam charm.

"We put a lot of love into this place," Lara said of the collective effort that included dining room manager Steven Foux and chef Andy Saver. Added Steve: "We've been planning this for eight years. Every time we'd go out to dinner we'd talk about how we wanted to do it differently."

Like the classy yet comfortable atmosphere, the Kitchen Table's distinctive New American cuisine is simple yet spectacular. Substance is greater than spectacle here, and fresh ingredients and creative flavor combinations are stars instead of frou-frou presentation. Portions are generous and prices are reasonable. Service is topnotch.

One can always judge a joint by its Caesar salad, and the Kitchen Table's whole-leaf with shaved Parmesan was the best we've ever tasted. The mouthwatering duck leg confit with smoked bacon, baby frisee and potato was also the best duck confit dish I've ever had. Also outstanding was the Otter Creek-battered rock shrimp, fennel and lemon that's lightly fried up tempura style and served with horseradish aioli.

Large plates are equally impressive. Steve is clearly a master of meats, which were cooked to perfection in every instance. The Angus strip steak is grilled, given an herb rub and served with grilled red onions, slightly crisp and slender frites and tarragon aioli (and a handcrafted French La Guiole steak knife, to boot). The herb-roasted organic chicken in bay laurel jus was succulent and tender, while the grilled salmon with lemon butter sauce stood out in the sea of mediocre salmon dishes found in many places. Lighter options include the ever changing "veg plate" and seafood specials, such as the recent pan-seared scallops with warm watercress salad and red-wine veal reduction. Desserts - all made in-house by Lara - are not to be missed.

Napa "was a huge influence," Steve said of the couple's Californian tenure. "The experience was incredible. We wouldn't be the chefs we are today. We thought we couldn't do it in Vermont," he said. "Now, five years later, just about everything is readily available."

"It's great to be back home," Steve said. "We were gone for too long."